Beyond Lava: The Big Island of Hawaii

By Leighton Klevana

Hawaii, commonly referred to as the Big Island of Hawaii, is the largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. Made up of eight main islands, the state of Hawaii boasts an array of environments on each of the islands. The Big Island is by far the most opportune for travelers looking for something new. It offers white sand beaches, tropical rainforests, and volcanic lava fields. Unlike its fellow islands of Maui and Oahu, the Big Island isn’t overrun by tourists. Only 14% of the states 9.3 million visitors came to the island in 2017. With so few tourists coming to the island and so many reasons to visit, the Big Island of Hawaii is becoming a popular destination for vacationers looking to escape to normal Hawaiian vacation. 

This past Winter Break, my family and close friends made the long journey to the island. A total of 14 hours, with a rushed layover in Dallas, the trip proved harder to reach then most vacation destinations. It can also be  pricey during peak travel season, which runs from November to April.

Makalawena Beach.

The beaches on the Big Island are scattered mostly on the western coast of the island, with the most popular located in the stretch called the “Kohala Coast.” Most beaches must be reached by a hike and sometimes require an off-road drive to reach. Makalawena, Manini’owali, and Puako beaches all offer white sands, wildlife, and crystal clear waters. Just a short swim from shore, snorkelers can find abundant reefs, which thrive on the volcanic rock. Unfortunately, swells are common in the winter months on this island and can cause many beaches to close down. When we were there, a swell hit the islands, causing large and sometimes dangerous waves.

The hike to Makalawena Beach across a lava field.
The pool at the end of Lone Palm Hike.

In contrast to the white sand beaches, there are also plenty of black sand and volcanic rock beaches on the island. Kiholo, 49 Black Sands, and Captain Cook all offer rocky black sand beaches. But the hike to Captain Cook can take more than an hour down a steep and narrow trail. This hike is not for everyone, but it leads to a large bay, called Kealakekua, with great views and snorkeling. In the reefs off of the bay we saw dolphins, moray eels, and lots of other fish.  

Honokane Nui Lookout on a cloudy day.

The Big Island isn’t only about its world-class beaches. It also offers a large number of hikes for every level, from beginners to experts. It’s best to bring plenty of water and sturdy hiking boots on every hike, as there is nowhere to get water along the hikes. Lone Palm hike is a 30-minute hike along the volcanic sea cliffs to a freshwater swimming hole in the middle of a lava field. The water is deep and crystal clear, but icey cold. It got its name from the lone palm tree shading the pool. Pololu Valley, a much more challenging hike, spanning several miles and 590 feet of vertical rise. The trail winds down a cliff across a stream, then by a black sand beach before a final climb up another cliff. The end offers a lookout, referred to as Honokane Nui, which reveals a picture-worthy view of the Pacific Ocean. 

Pololu Valley hike.
Pololu Valley hike.
A random bath along the Kohala coast.

Another popular attraction on the island are the naturally forming tidal pools. These “baths” lie in the volcanic rocks near the ocean. You can find them all over the island. The pools are known to offer a refreshing and picturesque dip. But the pools offered little enjoyment when we visited, as the water can get rough, and the rocks cut your feet. There are also no directions to these baths, so it’s a complete guess as to where they are.

Another great attraction are the two volcanoes on the island, Mauna Kea the island’s dormant volcano, and Kilauea, the active volcano. Both volcanoes take a decent drive to reach, but they offer great views of the islands farm lands and lava fields.

Mauna Kea offers an in-depth visitors’ center at the base of the 14,000 foot volcano. The center offers historical exhibits and information on the one million year old volcanic history of the Big Island. Kilauea, which is a three hour drive from the resort district, or Kohala, is not a typical volcano. There is no towering peak, but instead the lava flows from lava vents on the island’s eastern side. The land surrounding the vents is completely flat and black from lava flow. It last erupted in 2018 but poses little danger to visitors. 

With so much activity on the island, every traveler will build up an appetite. Lava Lava Beach Club, located on ‘Anaehoʻomalu Beach, combines local food with a beachy atmosphere, and all of this is just feet away from the ocean. Another favorite is Napua at the Mauna Lani beach club, where their ribs are island-famous. They use island-raised pork and coat it in a local mango barbecue sauce. Finally, for any travelers looking for a more formal meal, which can be pricey, head up to the small mountain town of Waimea to Merriman’s. The restaurant serves up local dishes with island ingredients, like Taro root. Taro is a starchy purple root native to Pacific islands. They also have a weekly seafood menu with items like Mahi Mahi, tuna, and even octopus.

The Big Island of Hawaii is a perfect stop for travelers who want to experience the true island spirit of Hawaii. The rugged and undeveloped island offers travelers so much, but most of it takes hard work to find. 

All photos by Leighton Klevana.

About the author

Leighton Klevana is a Junior as Collegiate School.